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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
鮨一幸を一言で言うなら、引き算鮨の最高峰。
そして、その引き算の先に残っているのが、驚くほど優しい味だ。
つまみは鯛から始まる。軽く整えただけの鯛が示すのは、余計なことはしないというこの店の宣言文のようなものだ。赤貝は香りと歯切れがきれいに立ち、キンキのしゃぶしゃぶでは脂の甘さが一気に開く。白子は温度管理が的確で、バチコが添えられることで、旨味のベクトルが一段階引き上げられ、日本酒との相性が抜群。
握りに入っても思想は一貫している。春子鯛、サヨリ、サワラと続く流れは、舌をフラットに保つための設計だ。
そして誤解してはいけないのは、ここが淡白な鮨屋ではないということ。中トロも大トロも、寒ブリも、ノドグロも、脂のってるものはちゃんとうまい。
ただし、その脂は前に出てこない。
量で押さず、温度とシャリで受け止める。
脂が主役にならないから、重さが残らない。これは脂を削っているのではなく、脂を理解し、制御している鮨だ。
昆布森町の超レアなウニも、都内ではだんだん珍しくなるノドグロ丼も希少価値が高く、うまい。コハダは締めすぎず、鯵は香味がきれいに立ち、塩でいただく穴子は静かに幕を閉じる。玉で終える流れまで含めて、すべてが過不足なく配置されている。
玉で締める流れも含め、全体に無駄な寄り道がない。
引き算鮨の最高峰であり、優しい味の鮨屋。その上で、脂のピークは外さない。
このバランス感覚こそが、鮨一幸が人気な理由の気がする。
====================================
つまみ
鯛
赤貝
キンキしゃぶしゃぶ
白子
バチコ
握り
春子鯛
サヨリ
サワラ
中トロ 青森
大トロ
ウニ 昆布森町
ノドグロ丼
コハダ
寒ブリ 氷見
鯵
穴子
玉
追加
イワシ
アオリイカ
トロタク
干瓢巻き