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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
鮨おばなの料理は、一つひとつの仕事が丁寧なのはもちろんだが、それ以上に素材そのものの強さを真正面からぶつけてくるところが特徴的だ。
まずはお塩。
提供されるのは満月の日に汲み取った塩と、新月の日に汲み取った塩の二種類。どちらも月に一度しか作れない貴重なもので、前者は塩味が力強く、後者はミネラルが豊か。まずこの塩を味わわせておき、最初の刺身で違いを体感してほしい、という店の意図がすぐに伝わる。
その塩をまとわせて食べるアラの刺身は、ねっとりとした食感に、満月と新月の塩がそれぞれ異なる輪郭をつけてくる。
株の摺流しで一度落ち着いたあと、藁焼きのサワラの香りが立ち上がる。火の香りに負けないサワラの脂の強さで、素材の力がそのまま風味に反映されている。漬け込んだシャコはクセを抑えつつ旨味をきっちり残したバランスで、この段階でもう店の方向性がはっきりと見えてくる。
そのままの勢いで出てくるウニパフェがまた強烈で、ウニだけで勝負するのかと思いきや、シャリにもウニを混ぜ込んであり、層ごとに甘みと香りの濃度が変化する。見た目は遊び心があるが、味は本格的。ウニの濃さにシャリが負けていない。
名取の赤貝の紐きゅうは、歯切れの良さがとにかく強い。白子は本体と残ったソースにシャリを入れてリゾットの二段構成で、牡蠣や生しらす漬けはシンプルに素材の瑞々しさが際立った。
特に心に残ったのが、ボラとカラスミの一皿だ。仕入れの段階で卵を抱えていた個体で、身は刺身に、卵はそのままカラスミに仕上げて提供してくれる。いわば本当の親子が同じ皿の上で再会するような構成で、店でも10年で2回しか扱っていないというほど貴重なものだった。こうした特別な体験があると、その日の食事が一段と深い記憶として残る。
トロ巻きとあん肝でつまみをまとめ、握りへ。
コハダは柔らかい酸味で入りやすく、そのあとに出てきたおばなSPイクラが一気に主張を強める。日本海側で上がった1〜2トンのシャケから、わずか10kgにも満たない量を選別したイクラで、粒の張りと脂の濃さが段違いだった。
赤身・中トロ・大トロの流れも安定していて、どれも状態がかなり良かった。マグロはやま幸の塩釜産、120kgの巻網というしっかりした個体で、赤身は清さが際立ち、中トロは脂と酸のバランスがよく、大トロの砂ずりは重さよりも旨味で押してくるタイプ。素材そのものの力が素直に伝わる三段構成だった。
スミイカ、春子鯛、小柱で食感の違いを楽しみ、サワラ漬けとイワシが再び素材の力を押し出してくる。赤貝も状態がよく、甘エビはペーストとそのままの二段構成で甘みの奥行きを感じた。ハマグリと昆布締めの貝割れ大根で少し落ち着きを取り戻す。
そして車海老丼。
海老よりも、“シャリ”が主役。
シャリには20年継ぎ足してきた海老の出汁が染み込んでいて、海老のエキスが信じられないほど濃厚。ひと口で海老の旨味だけで景色が変わるような、唯一無二の存在感だった。
ウニ、穴子、玉で静かに締まり、女将さん特製ミルク吉野葛で落ち着く。追加の天然縞鯵も身の香りも強く、最後まで素材の輪郭がはっきりしている店という印象が続いた。
=============================================
つまみ
アラ 刺身
株の摺流し
サワラ 藁焼き
シャコ
ウニパフェ
赤貝の紐キュウ
肝
白子
煮た牡蠣
生しらす漬け
ボラ カラスミ
トロ巻き
あん肝
握り
コハダ
いくら
赤身
中トロ
大トロ 砂ずり
スミイカ
春子鯛
小柱
サワラの漬け
イワシ
赤貝
甘エビ
ハマグリ
貝割れ大根 昆布締め
車海老丼
ムラサキウニ
穴子
玉
ミルクプリン
追加
縞鯵