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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
すし処ひさ田は、岡山駅から車で30分ほど。
公共交通で気軽に行く立地ではない。営業は紹介制かつ貸し切り制で、年間の営業日数も35日程度と限られている。
店主はイタリアンのバックグラウンドを持ち、鮨を軸にしながらも、構成や組み合わせにイノベーティブな要素を取り入れるスタイル。この日は、つまみ3品、握り15貫という構成だった。
つまみは3品、全品とも独創性の高い一品だ。
里芋をベースに蒸しエゾバフンウニをのせ、からし酢味噌をかける一品。里芋の温度と質感が土台になり、ウニのコクとからしの刺激を受け止める。
漬けモッツァレラチーズには、かぶらのすりながしをかけ、仕上げに黒胡椒。乳のコクに、かぶらの淡さと胡椒の輪郭が重なる。
月光百合根にカラスミ、京都黒七味。甘み、塩味、香りが整理された組み合わせ。
握りの酢飯には赤酢とりんご酢を使っており、シャリは唯一無二。
最初のヒラメとサヨリは、シンプルで王道の味付け。ここで基準が提示される。そこから先は、少しずつ変化球が混じる。
アオリイカはおろし生姜と酢橘で切れを出し、キスは海苔を挟み、サワラには辛味大根。
南マグロは80kgのオーストラリア産。赤身は漬け、中トロは血合いの部分。赤身との境目が美しい。
大トロは本マグロ釜下（アイルランド）に山ワサビ。
白エビ、車海老と続き、
榊山牛のイチボはにぎりで提供。肉を焼いてたたいたもので、食感と印象はハンバーグに近い。
サバはからし醤油、
金目鯛は昆布と木の芽。
干瓢巻きの干瓢はお出汁で炊かれていて、かなりジューシー。こういう干瓢は初めてだった。
茶は、生姜と三つ葉の風味が立つ。
最後は、最中仕立ての栗のチーズケーキ。
立地や営業形態も含め、すし処ひさ田は一般的な鮨屋とは前提条件が違う。
王道の握りで基準を示しつつ、途中にイタリアンのバックグラウンドを感じさせる変化球を挟む構成。
独創性はあるが、流れは破綻せず、最後まで一本の線でつながっている。
また人数が集まったら行きたい。
====================================
つまみ
蒸しエゾバフンウニ 里芋
漬けモッツァレラチーズ かぶらと黒胡椒
月光百合根 カラスミ 京都黒七味
握り
ヒラメ
サヨリ
アオリイカ
キス
サワラ
琵琶鱒
赤身漬け
中トロ
大トロ
白エビ
車海老
榊山牛 イチボ
白味噌汁
サバ
金目鯛
干瓢巻き
玉
栗のチーズケーキ最中