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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
鮨さいとうから独立——その肩書きだけで期待値は十分すぎるほどに立ち上がるが、鮨しゅんじはその期待を丁寧に満たすというより、ある一点で静かな水面に石を落としてくる店だった。
つまみは驚くほど穏やかに始まる。北海道つぶ貝と純菜のひんやりした立ち上がり、夏らしい一品。穴子は香ばしく仕上げ、しらすと大根の軽やかなコントラスト。タコは噛ませ、白甘鯛は温度で魅せ、マグロの角煮で一度しっかりと地に足をつけさせる。この時点ではすでに変化球のつまみ。何かを仕掛けてくる気配は、まだ水面下だ。
握りに入ると流れはさらに整う。スズキ、鯵、中トロと続き、そこで出てくる新子は3枚づけ。季節感だけでなく、仕事量そのものをきっちりと示してくるあたりに、さいとう系譜の矜持がにじむ。ハマグリの火入れは過不足なく、大トロで一度きれいな頂点を描く。ここまでは、教科書通りと言っていい。
そして次の一手で、空気が変わる。
旬の赤ウニ太巻き。
赤ウニを4箱分使用。軍艦でもなく、握りでもなく、太巻きにする——この発想自体が前代未聞だ。量の誇示ではなく、構造の選択。口に入れた瞬間、情報量は一気に跳ね上がるが、味は不思議と一方向に収束する。静かな流れの中に、突然「蛙が飛び込んだ」ような瞬間。この一貫が、この店をただの名店で終わらせない。
赤身、ボタン海老で整え、アワビの握りが出る。ここで添えられる肝ソースをアワビにつけて食べ、少し残した、その隙を見逃さない。次に差し込まれるのはウニの握り。残った肝ソースを受け止めるためだけに登場するウニという設計思想に、料理人の悪い笑顔が透けて見える。さらに肝ソース×ウニご飯で、余韻を完全回収。
終盤、穴子は骨を完全に消し、ふわふわという言葉しか残らない食感。トロタクで一度力を抜かせ、味噌汁と玉で静かに着地。追加の中トロと干瓢巻きも、騒がず、出しゃばらず、ただ気持ちよく終わらせるための一手。
鮨しゅんじは、さいとうの血統を引き継ぎながら、赤ウニ太巻きという異物を一点だけ落とす。その落差が、水音として最後まで耳に残る。
独立とは、派手に変えることではない。
静かな水面に、確信犯的に石を落とすことだ。