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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
つまみ:
鱧出汁の茶碗蒸し
鰹節卵かけご飯
炭火焼き新銀杏
炭火焼きカマス
炭火焼きカツオ
もずく
穴子 肝と胃袋
秋刀魚ご飯
にぎり:
赤身漬け
中トロ
コハダ
真鯛
アジ
赤ウニ 大分
新イカ
ゲソ
いくらの醤油漬け丼
穴子
干瓢巻き
追加:
マハタ
メイチダイ
赤ウニ 天草
赤ウニ 芥屋
赤ウニ 瀬戸内
車海老
クロムツ
煮ホタテ
漬けマグロ巻き
穴子棒巻き
玉
=================================
店内は10席のみのL字カウンター。5組10人で満席。客の大半は地元の常連で、県外から来たのは我々だけだった。いかにも内輪の店だが、不思議と疎外感はない。
つまみで最も印象に残ったのは、秋刀魚ご飯。
焼いた秋刀魚を細かく刻み、シャリ、肝汁、大葉、葱、胡麻を合わせる。主役は秋刀魚の香りと濃厚な肝だが、大葉が油分を切り、葱と胡麻が香りに奥行きを与える。要素は多いのに、味は散らからない。よく考えられた一品だ。
にぎりも安定感がある。
シャリは小ぶりで、赤酢だが主張しすぎず、最後まで重くならない。この日のハイライトは4産地の赤ウニの食べ比べ。大分、天草、芥屋、瀬戸内。それぞれ甘み、コク、余韻が異なり、単純な優劣はつけられない。産地の違いがはっきり出ていた。
ここで一つ、鮨好きなら気づく違和感がある。
最初の二貫が、いきなりマグロだった。江戸前の定石では、白身やイカなど淡いネタから入り、中盤にマグロが出てくるはずだ。
気になって、大将に理由を聞いてみた。
すると大将は、まるでその質問を待っていたかのように、嬉しそうに語り始めた。
本来は彼も、伝統的な江戸前の順序で握っていたという。ただ、白身にはやや低めの温度のシャリ、マグロには少し高めの温度のシャリが合う。
順序を守るために、炊きたてのシャリを団扇で冷まし、後半また温め直す——それではシャリの質が落ちてしまう。
だったら順序を変えればいい。シャリがまだ温かいうちにマグロを握り、その後に白身を出す。形式よりも、温度を優先した結果だ。
話を聞いて、なるほどと思った。
温度管理は鮨の要であり、同時に人手の問題もある。シャリを二度炊けない現実を含めて、すべてを受け入れた上での判断なのだ。
そこから話題は、大将自身の経験へと広がった。
サウジアラビアで鮨を握った経験。乾燥した環境ではシャリが一瞬で乾き、魚の管理も過酷を極めたという。
さらに印象的だったのは、大将が日本料理の修行しかしておらず、鮨屋での下積み経験がなかったことだ。
では、どうやって握りを身につけたのか。
そう尋ねると、大将はカウンターの端から寿司の食品サンプルを取り出した。かつてはそれを常に持ち歩き、外出先でも握りの練習をしていたという。そのサンプルは今も宝物としてカウンターに置かれ、初心を忘れないための象徴になっている。
酒肴も鮨も、全体として完成度は高い。
大将は職人気質でありながら説明は丁寧。女将の笑顔と気配りも心地よい。
福岡の名店は多いが、また来たいと思わせるのは唐島だ。理由は、大将の中にまだ伸びしろを感じるから。
次に訪れるとき、この店はきっと今より一段上に進んでいる。
そしてその分、予約は今より少し難しくなっているはずだ。